AUTUMN REVERIE
Monday, October 10, 2005
Paper Chef #11: Pecan-Crusted Cinnamon Duck with Gingered Pear-Cherry Compote and Maple Sweet Potato Grits
For this month’s Paper Chef competition (the brainchild of Owen at Tomatilla!), an internet version of television’s Iron Chef, Stephen at Stephen Cooks asked entrants to compose a dish based around 4 ingredients, centered thematically around fall, my favorite season of the year.
Fall in the South tends to come suddenly, dropping gusts of cool air at the last moment, just when we’ve given up hope that the daytime temperature will ever drop below 85. Summer lasts so long here that by the time fall finally arrives, even if it dips in and out until Christmas, I am so grateful that I spend every possible moment outdoors. One of the delights of the season in this corner of the world is that the green of summer remains long after the crisp nip in the air drains the hot, heavy humidity of summer. The vegetation in these parts still glistens with life under the more temperate autumn sun, and the combination of the charged zip in the air with the still-warm kiss of the sun puts a sparkling spring in my step and in my hopes for the days to come every single year.
Stephen’s call for autumn-inspired cuisine, had it come just a week earlier, would have found me dripping with sweat and wondering if southern Louisiana would ever cool off. Luckily, though, the seasonal drop in temperature came just in the nick of time. It was a lovely 70 degrees when David and I headed out Saturday morning for the Red Stick Market, armed with the ingredient list and our imaginations.
The required ingredients for this month’s competition are: DUCK, PEARS, GINGER, AND NUT BUTTER. I grew up in a family of hunters, so wild game appeared frequently in our meals this time of year. My dad usually cooks duck on the grill with cinnamon, and its simplicity is hard to beat. For my creation, I borrowed the cinnamon from him (which I think he might have borrowed from my Aunt Emily), and picked up a pound of pecans from Buddy Miller of Plantation Pecans, both to use for the requisite nut butter component and to add a southern flair to my preparation. Pecan-Crusted Cinnamon Duck Breasts were soon ready to be hatched.
I marinated the breasts overnight in red wine and balsamic vinegar spiced with ginger, cloves, and cinnamon sticks. I made a pecan butter from slow-roasted pecans, cinnamon, butter, and a little maple syrup, which I lathered onto the duck. Next, I rolled the breasts in chopped pecans and dredged them in flour. To achieve a crispy brown layer on the outside while preserving the tenderness of the meaty inside, I seared the breasts in a skillet for a couple of minutes per side and then finished by roasting them in the oven.
For the sauce and presentation, I wanted to find a way to incorporate the rich autumn hues of red and orange, while using the good fat from the duck to flavor the dish. I decided on a ruby-colored sauce, which I made by simmering the pears in some of the red wine marinade, along with dried red cherries, shallots, and lots of spice. I used that mixture to deglaze the pan after the ducks were finished cooking, which resulted in a sort of rich, saucy compote. To remain true to my southern roots, I served the duck on a bed of grits, colored orange and flavored by whipping them with roasted sweet potatoes and long strands of orange zest. I finished the dish with crispy red onion strings, which served as a nice contrast, both in flavor and texture, to the sweet, soft potato grits.
So how was it? Well, it was fabulous. The combination of flavors and textures–the spiciness of the ginger, cloves, cinnamon, and allspice; the rich buttery subtlety of the roasted pecan butter; the crispy texture of the onions and the duck’s crust; the sweetness of the pears and cherries; the savory duck itself with just a hint of wildness–left us reveling in the complexity of every bite. I have to confess–the Sweet Potato Grits were a surprise. I was fully prepared to junk the idea if it turned out to be too strange, but the mixture of the sweet potatoes and grits makes for a light and fluffy compliment to the fuller, stronger flavors in the duck and sauce. The crispy onions were just the right topping.
This is really not my method of cooking–as you who read often know, I usually try to make our meals in an hour or less; I rarely have time to spend coddling and cajoling ingredients to come together over the span of two days. I have to say, though, I loved every minute of it. It was relaxing, almost, to take my time with the food I was making (who knew?!).
David and I set a card table in our backyard, just before the sun went down, and enjoyed the last of our first autumn Sunday by savoring every bite of the delicious flavors of the season.
Here is the step-by-step recipe:
Maple Sweet Potato Grits
2 large or 3 medium sweet potatoes
1 cup quick grits
1 t. salt
1/2 t. cinnamon
2 tablespoons pecan butter
1/4 cup maple syrup
Zest of one orange
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Roast the sweet potatoes until very soft, about 1 hour. (Prepare the duck and sauce meanwhile). Cool the potatoes, peel, and place in the bowl of a mixer. Prepare the grits according to the package directions. Pour the cooked grits and remaining ingredients into the mixer, and mix until light and fluffy.
Pecan-Crusted Cinnamon Duck
4 duck breasts, skin on
Marinade:
2/3 cup red wine (I used Pinot Noir)
2 T. balsamic vinegar
2 T. maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
8 whole cloves
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 t. fresh rosemary, chopped
1 t. minced ginger
1 t. Kosher salt
Sprinkle of cracked black pepper
Pecan Butter:
1 stick butter, softened
1/2 cups pecans, roasted
1/2 t. ground cinnamon
2 T. maple syrup
Coating:
1 cup raw pecans, chopped finely
Flour as needed
Cinnamon
Ground black pepper
Kosher salt
Olive oil
1/4 cup red onion, sliced paper-thin
Combine all the marinade ingredients in a shallow baking dish. Trim any hanging fat from the duck breasts and score the skin by cutting a diamond pattern into it (be careful not to cut all the way to the meat). Add the breasts to the marinade, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Grind the roasted pecans in a food processor until very, very fine. Add cinnamon, syrup, and butter, and process until smooth. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the butter for the Sweet Potato Grits. Season the flour with cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Make an assembly line with the plate of flour, a shallow dish with the pecan butter, and a plate of the pecans. Dip each breast in flour, then butter, then in the chopped pecans, and then in flour again. Place the coated breasts on a plate and cover tightly. Refrigerate while you prepare the sweet potatoes, grits, and sauce.
Heat a large, oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat with a teaspoon or so of olive oil. When the skillet is hot but not smoking, fry the onions in the oil until brown and crispy. Remove; set aside. Add the breasts, and sear for about 2 minutes per side. The coating should be brown. Place the skillet in the oven, and roast the breasts for about 10-12 minutes at 400 degrees, until it slices easily but it still pink in the middle. Turn the breasts halfway through roasting.
Remove the breasts from the pan and cover with foil to keep warm.
Gingered Pear-Cherry Red Wine Compote
Leftover marinade
1 pear, diced
1/2 cup dried cherries
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup red wine
1/4 t. ground allspice
Zest of 1 orange
Pan juices from roasting the duck
2 shallots, minced
1 tsp. ginger, minced
Strain the solids from the marinade and discard. Bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat and add pear, cherries, sugar, wine, allspice, and orange zest. Simmer over medium heat for about 30 minutes, until the fruit is very soft. Reduce heat to low and keep warm and covered until duck is ready. Reheat the pan juices over medium; add the shallots and ginger and cook until both are tender, a few minutes. Add the fruit-wine mixture, scraping any brown bits from the bottom, and cooking and stirring until the mixture thickens. Taste for seasoning.
To serve: Place a scoop of the sweet potato-grits on each plate. Slice the breast diagonally, and arrange against the mound of grits. Pile a nest of fried onion strings on top of the grits. Top with sauce, and sprinkle with ground nuts and chopped rosemary to garnish.
Cooking the figs with the vinegar, lemon, and spices gives them a rich, jammy flavor, and letting those flavors mingle overnight gives the dish an interesting complexity and depth of flavor. Your tastebuds move from the tang of the vinegar and lemon to the soft sweetness of the figs, spiced with clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and on to the salty, meaty sausage. Although the dish is not terribly appetizing to look at (I’ve photographed it on two different occasions now–it just ain’t pretty), once you’ve made the fig sauce, it comes together in about 20 minutes. I have served it over rice, toast points, and grits; last night we had it over cous cous. And although I haven’t tried it, the recipe might work with canned figs too–I’d just rinse off any syrup. This sauce is sweet enough on its own; in fact, I think it would be good in a variety of ways. Perhaps I’ll experiment with the leftovers…
