Weekly Dish

When I got married, one of the most thoughtful gifts I received was from a family friend with whom I happened to be working at the time. During our time as co-workers, Beth apparently noticed my insatiable passion for muffins, and for my office shower, she brought me a very cute basket, packed with a muffin tin, brightly colored dish cloths, and a little cookbook called Muffins, A to Z. Today, the cloths are faded and worn, and I’ve made almost every muffin recipe in the book. Every time I mix up a new batch of batter, I can’t help but think about sweet Beth who paid such careful attention to my love of these small breakfast wonders.

I really love all kinds of muffins–sweet, savory, fruit, chocolate, light, dense–you name it, and I’ve tried it. I have some old favorites that I return to, of course, but I’m always on the lookout for new ideas. When my sweet friend Rorie of Milk & Honey posted a scone recipe using Meyer lemons and cranberries several weeks ago, I knew I wanted to hi-jack that flavor combination for muffins.

The lemon flavor is clean and light, not too overpowering, and the cranberries add a nice zip to every other bite. The texture is cake-like and moist, as I prefer my muffins, due to the combination of butter and buttermilk for the fat and liquid content.

Perfect for an end-of-winter Saturday morning. In fact, I think I’ll make them again tomorrow.

Lemon-Cranberry Muffins

NOTE: I tried these again with orange zest and juice substituted for the lemon and grated nutmeg for the almond extract with good results!

2 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup sugar
2 t. baking powder
1 t. baking soda
1/2 t. salt
Zest of 2 Meyer lemons, about 1 T.
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
6 T. butter
2 large eggs
1/4 t. almond extract
Juice of 1 Meyer lemon, about 1/4 cup
1 cup dried, fresh, or frozen cranberries (I used dried)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees, and grease your muffin pan. Combine the dry ingredients: flour, sugar, baking powder and soda, salt, and lemon zest in a large bowl. Melt the butter and whisk together quickly with the buttermilk (it helps if the buttermilk is not ice cold); whisk in the eggs. Add the almond extract and lemon juice and stir to blend. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry by adding all at once, folding together until just blended (overmixing will make a tough muffin.) Fold in the cranberries. Divide the batter among the muffin cups and bake for 18-22 minutes, until the tops are lightly golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

My mom has been making this breakfast casserole for as long as I can remember. For baby showers, brunch, or simply for a nice Saturday breakfast, this recipe is a simple way to feed a lot of people. I remember Mom often making it the day before she needed to take it somewhere, so the morning of whatever event we were attending or hosting, all she had to do was tuck it in the oven.

The key to the flavor, in my opinion, is the sausage. My favorite version is with Jimmy Dean maple-flavored breakfast sausage, but I’ve had a difficult time finding it in the grocery store here. When I made the casserole over the holidays for my sister-in-law and her parents, I added a tablespoon of maple syrup to the sausage as I cooked it. Not quite the same, but still good.

Once the sausage is cooked, it’s really just a matter of assembly. Shred the bread, beat the eggs, layer everything into a casserole, and you’re all set. With fresh fruit and a cup of coffee, this breakfast is hard to beat, especially if you have company coming. My one caution is not to be tempted to overdo it on the cheese: the texture is light and fluffy, so you don’t want to weigh it down. Other than that, I find this to be a pretty no-fail recipe. Plus, it makes me think about my mom. Isn’t she cute?

Mom’s Breakfast Casserole

1 lb. maple-flavored breakfast sausage
9 eggs
2 cups milk
1 1/2 tsp. ground mustard
1 small loaf French bread
3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese
Salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cook and drain the sausage. Grease a 3-quart rectangular casserole dish and line the bottom with shredded French bread (I just tear it into small pieces with my hands). Beat the eggs and milk together; add the ground mustard. Season with salt and pepper (I use about 1/2 tsp. of each). Spread the sausage on top of the bread; pour the eggs evenly over. Top with the cheese, and bake for about an hour.

As regular readers of this site will know, I am not a person who counts carbs. I have been known to count calories if I want to lose weight, but I simply can’t give up bread or pasta. I tried Atkins for about a week when it first became popular, but I was miserable. I thought I would never want to see another scrambled egg or piece of bacon again.

But I have had friends who were careful about their carbohydrate intake. Our friends in Jackson, Laura and Randy, were on the South Beach diet for a while, and we dined with them often. Through learning to cook low-carb for them, I also learned that it’s important to have a variety of meals in my culinary arsenal. This frittata is both low-carb and gluten free, so if ever I have friends coming for dinner who fall into either of those categories, I at least have one option.

And, if they’re coming for Sunday brunch? Even better. This frittata is quintessential brunch food: it’s fast, easy, goes well with both coffee and juice, and the possibilities are endless. Put another way, you could throw in the kitchen sink, and a frittata would take it.

Well, okay, maybe not. But it soaked up my almost-expired goat cheese and quickly ripening green tomatoes with gusto. I used rosemary to add an herbal kick, but basil would provide a better, milder flavor; the rosemary was a little overpowering for my taste. Red tomatoes might work fine too, but the green ones are not as juicy, so there’s less chance that the frittata will be runny. Although tomato season is still a few months away, a farmer at our market grows them in a greenhouse. The flavor is definitely not the same as a tart green tomato at the height of summer; to minimize the difference, I salted the tomatoes and let them sit for a bit before tossing them in to the skillet. The salt also seems to absorb some of the tomatoes moisture, again reducing the possibility for a runny frittata.

Going low-carb? Cooking gluten-free? Just want a light, bright dish for brunch or lunch? Frittatas are the way to go. Here’s how I made this one, but the method is an open palate. If you try the kitchen sink, please, by all means, let me know how it turns out.

Green Tomato, Garlic, and Goat Cheese Frittata

1 large or 2 medium green tomatoes
Olive oil and butter
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 ounces goat cheese, or more to taste
Chopped rosemary (I used too much, but if you like the flavor, use it sparingly.)
6 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper

Preheat the broiler. Slice 4 thin slices from the tomato; salt, and set aside. Chop the remaining tomato, and salt it too. Heat about a tablespoon of olive oil in a broiler-proof skillet with a small pat of butter over medium heat. Add the garlic slices and saute until fragrant, about a minute or two. Add the chopped tomatoes, stirring to coat them with the garlic and oil. Cook until the tomatoes are very soft; salt and pepper. Meanwhile, beat the eggs and milk together; season them with salt and pepper too. Pour evenly over the tomatoes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and crumble the goat cheese on top of the eggs. Cook the eggs slowly, but without stirring. When the top is just beginning to set, lay the tomato slices on top, and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Place the whole skillet under the broiler to finish. Broil for a minute or two, or until the top is golden brown. Slice into wedges to serve. Serves 4-6.

This recipe is my contribution to Sweetnicks’ weekly event, Antioxidant Rich Tuesdays.

The theme for this month’s Paper Chef, as decreed by the grand master of cermonies, Owen, is the spirit of renewal that a new year brings: health, peace, simplicity. The ingredients, presented Friday by that ever-hilarious duo over at Belly-Timber, are healthful indeed: cashews, quinoa, yog(h)urt, and something baby, in honor of the infant year. (We’ll get to that mysterious q-word in just a moment).

But, well, see, here’s the thing. I live in southern Louisiana. Here, the New Year (January 6 to be exact) kicks off the beginning of Mardi Gras (or the anticipation of Mardi Gras, often called Carnival). A spirit of. . . celebration, revelry, getting all the fun out of your system before Lent begins marks the atmosphere ’round these parts. Parades and masks and balls and feasts. . .and health and simplicity? Hmmmm.

Alright, so maybe we interpret renewal a bit differently down here. BUT, in light of the ways in which the state suffered in 2005, I certainly think renewal is in order. And what better way to inaugurate such renewal than with a celebration of one of New Orleans’ oldest and most famous traditions? (more…)

A few weeks ago, my baby sister came to visit for the weekend. We had a great time while she was here, and for her send-off brunch on Sunday after church, I made fried chicken and biscuits. Fried chicken is really not hard to make; it just takes the willingness to get grease all over you and your kitchen. But I love it nonetheless, and I particularly like to make it for people I love.

When David and I visited his brother and wife in LA this summer, we had a southern-themed party for their friends. Among many other things, I made this chicken with Comeback Sauce, and it was a big hit. You can make the chicken without the spices in the flour, but I really like the way they pair with the flavors in the dressing. According to Mississippi chef and cookbook author Robert St. John (famous around these parts for what must be one of the best-named cookbooks ever), Comeback Sauce is an original Mississippi creation. Maybe that’s why my native Mississippi family makes it so well.

This recipe belongs to my Aunt Prissy. My family uses it for a number of things–to dip fried chicken, to spread on Saltine crackers, to dress our salad. According to legend, the sauce is so-named because it will keep you coming back for more. I don’t know if that’s true, but it sounds right to me.

Here’s the recipe for the chicken and Comeback Sauce; you can find the biscuit recipe here.

But first, here is my lovely sister, with whom I hope to share many, many good meals in the future. Come back soon Elizabeth! A recipe for the apple pie she made for dessert is soon to follow…!

PAPRIKA-SPICED FRIED CHICKEN

6 boneless chicken breasts

Buttermilk, to cover

Salt and pepper

1 c. flour

1/2 c. yellow cornmeal

1 T. paprika

1 t. seasoning salt

1 t. cumin

1 t. chili powder

Cut chicken into bite-sized pieces, salt and pepper, and soak in buttermilk for at least an hour (or overnight). To fry, heat about 1 cup of safflower or canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Dip chicken pieces in flour mixture and fry in batches until golden brown, about 10-15 minutes per batch. Be careful not to let chicken brown too quickly; remove from skillet to paper towels to drain when golden brown and crispy.

MISSISSIPPI COMEBACK SAUCE

2-3 cloves garlic

Half a sweet yellow onion 

1 c. mayonnaise

1/4 c. ketchup

1/4 c. chili sauce

2 T. Worcestershire sauce

1 t. yellow mustard

Kosher salt

Ground black pepper

Tabasco (a couple of dashes)

In a blender or food processor, chop the garlic and onion until finely minced. Add remaining ingredients; blend until well-combined.

One of the reasons sweet potatoes are so useful for baking is because they can add moisture and creaminess to baked goods without adding significantly to the fat content. I love to make muffins, and this recipe is one of my favorites. The cake portion of the muffin is light, fluffy, and not too sweet, and the sugared nut topping adds just the right amount of sweetness and crunch. If you want a really decadent breakfast or teatime treat, they are really good spread with some maple butter (1/2 stick butter whipped with 1/4 cup maple syrup). I like them all by themselves too.

These muffins would be great to take with you if you’re traveling to stay overnight with family or friends. The basis for this recipe comes from Marie Simmons’ little book, Muffins from A to Z.

Sweet Potato Muffins

2 1/2 cups flour

1/4 cup brown sugar + 2 T.

2 t. baking powder

1 t. baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup cooked sweet potato, mashed (about 1 medium potato)

1/4 cup maple syrup + 1 T.

1 1/3 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup melted butter

2 eggs

1/4 cup chopped pecans

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease your muffin tin and set aside. Mix the dry ingredients–flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt–in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk. Add the sweet potato, syrup, buttermilk, and butter, whisking until well combined. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry ones, mixing until just combined. Divide the batter between the muffin cups. For the topping, stir together 1/4 cup of chopped pecans, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, and 1 tablespoon of maple syrup. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over the muffins. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the tops are brown and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Store leftovers in the refrigerator.

This weekend our friends Jerrod and Jessie came to visit with their two-month-old baby, Ren. Since we moved away from Jackson, we have really missed not only all the meals we used to share with Jessie and Jerrod but also getting to see Ren on a regular basis. He’s grown so much since we saw him six weeks ago!

Usually on Sundays, David and I get up and go to the early service at church, and I fix a brunchy-type meal when we get home. That was our plan this morning too, but somehow, having a baby around tends to complicate even the best of intentions. We did have a big breakfast–scrambled eggs with pesto and parmesan, toast with Aunt Prissy’s homemade plum jelly, and sausage–just later than we’d planned and still in our pajamas. Here’s what we spent most of the weekend doing:

holding, touching, rocking, watching, listening to the baby! Breakfast was no exception: Ren sat beside the table in his swing, and cooed at us the whole time. The food was good–pesto is a great way to liven up scrambled eggs–but the best part of this Sunday breakfast was definitely the company. Can’t you guys just move down here?

Dinners borne out of a near-empty fridge and the end-of-the day exhaustion sometimes turn out to be a disaster. I’ve been known to throw all sorts of things into an omelet or a quesadilla or onto a pizza crust, and the results are not always as, well, as edible as I would like. Tuesdays often turn out to be the days that such disasters occur because it’s late when I get home, I’ve been in class all day, and even if I’ve planned a meal for the night, I often just don’t have the energy to go through with it.

This meal is the result of exactly those circumstances; I don’t remember what we were supposed to have, but I wanted something super fast with ingredients I had on hand. The next time you find yourself staring into your refrigerator, wondering what to make in less than 30 minutes, here’s a recipe I highly recommend. If you have: tortillas, eggs, and either a jar of pre-made salsa or a can of tomatoes and a pepper and an onion, you’re in great shape. If you have cheese, and some bacon and grits, even better. Here’s what I had in my kitchen and how it came together for a fast, satisfying dinner:

Super-Fast Breakfast Tortilla Supper

(these proportions are not exact, but that’s the beauty of super-fast cooking–no measuring!)

Tortillas

Eggs for scrambling (I had 4)

Milk (a tablespoon or so?)

Cumin

Chili powder

A yellow onion, diced (you may not need the whole thing)

Cheese of some sort (I used cheddar)

A jalapeno, sliced (seeded if you’re sensitive to spicy food)

Diced tomatoes (I used a 14-ounce can, drained)

Note: I started the grits and bacon in the microwave before cooking the eggs, so that everything would be ready at the same time.

Beat the eggs and milk and season with cumin and chili (I like the flavors, so I used a teaspoonful of both). Salt and pepper too, and set aside. Heat some olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add half of the onion. (Note: if you have salsa already made, you can skip down to scrambling the eggs). Add the jalapeno, and cook until both are very soft. Add the tomatoes, and season with cumin and chili. Remove from the skillet and set aside. Add the rest of the onion (if you’ve got salsa, you pick up here). Cook until soft, and then add the eggs, scrambling them until they’re cooked as you like. Remove to a plate. Add more oil to the skillet and lay a tortilla flat. Spread the surface with grated cheese. When the cheese begins to melt, spoon eggs down the center of the tortilla. Top with salsa, and fold the sides up and over the eggs. Cook for a minute more, and remove to plate. Repeat until you have enough tortillas for everyone (if you’re cooking for several people, keep the cooked ones warm in the microwave). Top with more salsa, and serve with grits and bacon if you’ve got them. Start to finish: about 20 minutes, and it would have gone faster if I’d had salsa already made!

I love breakfast food. Unfortunately, I am not naturally much of a morning person. So, often when I want eggs and muffins, I have to have them at night, instead of in the morning. My mom used to fix omelets and blueberry muffins for dinner, and so serving traditional breakfast foods when it’s dark outside reminds me of her. She is much better at flipping omelets and getting them to look pretty than I am; my omelets always end up looking a lot like scrambled eggs with other stuff in them. So, to use up leftovers, I like to make frittatas instead. No flipping, and finishing it under the broiler gives the cheese on top a bubbly brown texture that I really like. This one, inspired by my leftover spinach stuffing from the stuffed tomatoes last week, is quick and easy. You can make a frittata with just about anything. The basic recipe is: sauté some vegetables in a heavy oven-proof skillet, top with beaten eggs and cheese, cook until the eggs begin to set around the edges, top with more cheese, and finish under the broiler. The muffins I made to go with the frittata are sweet and crumbly, as good muffins should be. I made them with sugary, crunchy Asian pears from Miller Farms at the Red Stick Market. The frittata cooks quickly, so I prepare the muffins first, and use the time while the muffins are cooking to chop the vegetables and beat the eggs for the frittata.

Pear-Streusel Muffins

2 cups flour

1 cup sugar

1 T. baking powder

½ t. baking soda

1 t. cinnamon

½ t. allspice

2 large eggs

½ stick butter, melted

1 cup buttermilk

1 ½ cups chopped pear

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Mix all of the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Beat together the eggs, butter, and buttermilk. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry; stir until just combined. Add the chopped pears and stir to distribute evenly. Spoon the batter into a greased muffin tin.

For topping:

1 cup chopped walnuts; reserve half to sprinkle on the tops

4 T. flour

4 T. brown sugar

½ stick butter, softened

½ t. cinnamon

Mix all together with your hands until it forms a paste. Top the muffin batter with the streusel topping, and then sprinkle on the reserved walnuts. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the topping is brown and crumbly.

While the muffins are cooking, you can prep your vegetables and get everything ready for the frittata. When the muffins are done, turn the broiler on to preheat.

Spinach-Mushroom Frittata

1 clove garlic, minced

½ yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 cup sliced mushrooms

2-3 T. leftover spinach filling (optional)

1 cup fresh spinach leaves, chopped

4 eggs

½ cup milk

½ cup feta cheese, crumbled

1 cup mild grated cheese of your choice (I used Swiss)

Sauté the garlic, onion, and mushrooms over medium-high heat in an oven-proof skillet (I use a cast-iron one) until tender, about 6 minutes. Stir frequently to make sure garlic doesn’t burn. Add the spinach filling and stir to coat the vegetables; cook another minute or two. Turn the heat down to medium-low, and add the spinach leaves, cooking until wilted. Meanwhile, beat the eggs, milk, and feta cheese together; pour over mushrooms and spinach. Salt and pepper well, but don’t stir. Let the eggs cook slowly until the edges begin to set, about 12-15 minutes. Grate cheese on top, and finish under the broiler; watch carefully, as it only takes a minute or two.

One of the great things about this meal is that leftovers can be enjoyed both in the morning and at night! I like to have the muffins with my afternoon coffee, as well.