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FRENCH + MEXICAN?

Friday, September 23

 

My parents might say that I cook this way because I've always been one who delights in not following the rules. I attribute it to my adventurous and imaginative spirit (which they would probably say is a nice way of saying I am a non-conformist, a bad word here in the South). Of course, now I'm a grown-up who gets to say, "Rules? What rules?" At least in my kitchen, anyway.

 

One of the things I love most about experimental cooking is to take flavors and preparation methods from different regions. Quesadillas are a perfect format for experimenting; they are so quick to make, and the crispy tortilla shell can hold just about anything well. For this variety, I chose the classic French flavor combination, pears and blue cheese, and served it with a tangy mango salsa (which didn't quite make it into the picture).

 

Before I give you the recipe though, I have to announce the birth of Ren William Partridge, son of Jessie and Jerrod, our good friends from Jackson (Jessie is the one who inspired the idea for this site). Ren was born yesterday around 1:15 (I think that time is close), and he weighed  9 pounds, 12 ounces (!!). Jessie and baby are doing well; I hope to have pictures to post soon.

 

Here's how to make the quesadillas (blue for boy!):

 

Blue Cheese-Pear Quesadillas

2 T. butter

3-4 cloves garlic

1/2 cup green onions, sliced

3 ripe pears (I used Asian ones), sliced thinly

1 T. red wine vinegar

1/4 t. cayenne pepper

1 T. brown sugar

4 large tortillas

8 ounces crumbled blue cheese

2 T. butter

 

In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic, and sauté until softened. Add the green onions and pears, and cook for about 10 minutes, until the pears are very soft. Add the vinegar, cayenne, and brown sugar, and cook while stirring for another 3-4 minutes. Remove the filling from the skillet, and heat another 2 T. butter over medium-high heat. Arrange one-fourth of the filling and cheese in half of each tortilla, and fold over. Cook until brown and bubbly, about 5-7 minutes per side. Serve with mango salsa.

 

Mango Salsa

1 ripe mango

1/2 red onion, chopped very finely

1 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1 jalapeno pepper, chopped

Juice of 1 lime

1 t. Kosher salt

 

Mix all in a bowl. Can be made ahead and refrigerated. If you have any leftover, it is delicious with lime-flavored tortilla chips.

 

PIZZA PARTY

Thursday, September 22

 

Moving to a new city has been hard on my entertaining sensibilities. I love to have people over for dinner, but how do you do that when you don't really know anyone? I have made friends with a girl in my program named Casey, who is from Missouri, also new to Baton Rouge, and with her sister, Christy. They were officially our first Baton Rouge dinner guests, and pizza was on the menu the night they came. I was too embarrassed to take a picture of the food while they were here, and as you can see, of the two whole pizzas I made, the four of us only left these two pieces (a successful meal, then, no?). It was lovely to have nice people to share our table with and reminded me why I enjoy entertaining so much.

 

Speaking of friends, I'd like to wish a happy anniversary to Jon and Hannah, who are vacationing in Yellow Stone right now, and a happy birthday to Jerrod, whose wife Jessie is being induced today! Their family will have another birth to celebrate, which I hope to report to you tomorrow.

 

Although I didn't plan to invite our new friends over when I made this pizza, it turned out to be a good choice for first-time guests--not too fancy, but the pesto and homemade crust still made it dressed-up enough for company. This recipe is another one I learned at the Brick-Oven; I ate their version of this pie many, many afternoons between the lunch and dinner shifts.

 

The crust takes a bit of planning, but it isn't difficult; it has to rise for an hour or so, but once it does, assembling the pizza is a snap. I used the pesto leftover from the Pesto Chicken Salad last week and the roast chicken from last night's dinner. Here's how it came together:

 

For the crust:

1 package yeast

1 1/2 cups warm water

1 tablespoon sugar

3 1/2 cups flour

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for kneading

1 teaspoon pesto

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 teaspoon garlic salt

 

In the bowl of a mixer, sprinkle the yeast over the water and sugar; stir to combine. Let it sit until the yeast dissolves, about 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix on low speed until all ingredients are combined. Knead with the dough hook for about 8 minutes, until a ball forms. Knead for a few more minutes by hand, coating your hands with olive oil as you work. The dough should be smooth and stretchy. Put back in the mixer bowl, cover, and allow it to rise for about an hour or an hour and a half.

 

To assemble pizza:

1 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes

4 tablespoons pesto

Olive oil

Roast chicken, chopped (about 1-2 cups)

3 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Separate the dough into 2 balls and let them rest while you prepare the other ingredients. Grease and flour two baking sheets. Toss the chicken with a tablespoon of the pesto and some olive oil, until coated. Stretch the dough by hand, or roll out with a rolling pin. Drizzle lightly with oil, rubbing it into the surface. Bake for about 7 minutes. Remove from the oven. Spread the rest of the pesto over the crust, diluting with oil as necessary to make it spread. Sprinkle the chicken and sun-dried tomatoes evenly over the pesto. Cover with mozzarella cheese. Bake for another 8-10 minutes, until cheese is melted and crust is brown at the edges.

 

MAKE MINE! NO, MINE!

Wednesday, September 21

 

In the Aunt's Recipe Book, there are two entries for Roast Chicken, one from Aunt Em and one from Aunt Prissy. Aunt Emily's says, "Mine's better than Prissy's so make this one." Aunt Prissy's says, "Mine is much, much better than Emily's so do use my recipe." What's a girl to do? When I first started cooking after I got married, I was not too fond of the idea of a whole chicken. The first time I bought one, armed with my two competing recipes, I removed the plastic packaging and sat the naked bird in the sink. I obediently followed the aunts' instructions: "Wash chicken inside and out. Pat dry." There was just one problem: all this gross stuff came out of the bird when I ran the water through his cavity, and I had the water on too high, so chicken juice splattered all over my face. When I set him down, it looked like he was standing in my sink looking at me. It was all too much for my delicate constitution at the time--I burst into tears and threw the bird away. I'm much braver now, but if a whole chicken intimidates you, don't worry, you aren't the only one.

 

If you can conquer your fears the first time, cooking a whole chicken is an easy way to kill two meals with one bird (pardon the pun!) The tender, roast breast meat is delicious with a bit of the pan drippings drizzled over it; I like to pair it with rice and a vegetable. These roasted carrots are crispy on the outside and sweet and soft on the inside, and the subtle flavors of the rice pilaf complement the chicken nicely without overpowering it. Once you get the chicken prepared, the rest of the meal comes together pretty quickly, but make sure the bird is good and defrosted--a frozen chicken takes a long, long time to cook all the way through, which I know from the last time we had dinner at about 10:00.

 

My Roast Chicken (a combination of the aunts' techniques)

1 whole chicken

2 lemons

2 cloves of garlic

Several sprigs rosemary

Olive oil

Lemon pepper

Kosher salt

 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Remove the innards and neck from the chicken. Gross, I know, but just reach in there and pull them out. Like pulling off a Band-aid, the quicker you do it, the less it hurts. Wash the chicken inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Place the bird in a roasting pan, and coat with olive oil, rubbing the oil into the skin. Pierce one lemon several times with a knife and place it, along with the garlic cloves, inside the cavity. Slice the other lemon thinly. Place the lemon slices and rosemary sprigs under the skin on top of the breasts--you might have to use a knife to separate the skin from the meat. Season the whole bird with salt and lemon pepper. Roast, breast side up, for between an hour and an hour and a half. The chicken is done when its temperature reaches 180 degrees, or when the juices run clear. Baste occasionally with the pan juices.

 

While the chicken is cooking, you can prepare the carrots and rice. For the carrots, I buy the package of baby carrots, and place them on a cookie sheet, whole. Toss with lots of olive oil, Kosher salt, and cracked pepper. Roast in the oven with the chicken for about 45 minutes to an hour. The carrots' skins should shrivel and begin to crust around the edges. Then, you can take your time with the rice pilaf. I learned the technique from Sara Foster's Rice Pilaf for All Seasons in Fresh Everyday; this one is my variation.

 

Minted Orange Rice Pilaf with Pine Nuts

1 T. butter

1 T. olive oil

1 yellow onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic

1 cup pine nuts

Zest of two oranges

1 1/2 cups jasmine rice

1 cup orange juice

1 cup coconut milk

1/2 cup chicken broth or water

Kosher salt and cracked pepper

1 cup coarsely chopped mint leaves

 

Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet or saucepan. Sauté the onion and garlic until both are soft but not brown. Add the pine nuts and half the orange zest and cook until nuts are fragrant, 3-5 minutes. Add the rice, and cook while stirring for another 3-5 minutes, or until the rice is coated with the butter and oil, sliding around the pan easily. Add the liquids, and salt and pepper well. Bring the mixture to a boil; then, reduce the heat so that it's simmering. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed. Stir in half of the mint leaves. To serve, top each serving with reserved orange zest and mint leaves.

 

After dinner, debone the chicken and reserve the leftover meat. Even better, talk your husband into doing it (the best, of course, is if he offers, like mine does. Thanks David!) You can use it for all kinds of things...like the pizza tomorrow!

 

 

FAREWELL, SUMMER

Tuesday, September 20

 

This is my favorite summer pasta dish. Another Brick-Oven knock-off, this pasta turns up in my kitchen many times over the course of the summer. A couple of weeks ago, the vendor at the Market who sold me these tomatoes told me that would be his last crop until the fall ones came in. In honor of the last summer tomatoes, I decided to fix them in the way I feel best captures their pure flavor. If you can still get your hands on some summer tomatoes, please make this pasta before the season leaves for good. I do wish it would take some of this dreadful humid heat with it when it goes...a breath of fall air would do me some good.

 

FRESH TOMATOES AND BASIL

1/2 pound angel hair pasta

1 T. butter

2 T. olive oil

6-8 cloves of fresh garlic, sliced thinly

2 pounds fresh, ripe tomatoes chopped

1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn

Kosher salt

Cracked pepper

Parmesan cheese

 

Cook the pasta until tender and drain. Toss with the butter and set aside. In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat, until it shimmers. Add the garlic, and cook until it just begins to turn golden, but be careful not to let it burn. Add the tomatoes all at once and coat with the garlicky oil. Salt and pepper well. Lower the heat to medium-low, and cook until the tomatoes' skins are beginning to shrivel (they should be soft but not mushy). Add half of the basil until just wilted. Pile each plate with a mound of the pasta. Pour the tomatoes on top, making sure to get plenty of the liquid. Top with extra basil leaves and grated Parmesan cheese. Serve with crusty bread (I cook mine right in the skillet after the tomatoes are done; it soaks up the leftover juices and absorbs that garlicky flavor). And, if you are one of those must-have-meat people (or if you cook for one), grilled shrimp or chicken works well in this dish. A quick, easy, and so delicious meal!

 

PORTABELLA PIE

Monday, September 19

 

The menu for this week proves that I apparently cannot go a week without relying heavily on chicken. I can't get away from it! In my second-semester writing class for the past 2 years, I have taught an essay called "A Savage Life," in which Suzanne Winckler vividly describes her ritual participation in chicken-butchering at a friend's farm. Both times I've taught the essay, without fail, on the way to school I've ended up behind one of those awful chicken trucks with the cages stacked on top of each other, feathers flying out everywhere. Coincidence? Maybe, except that another professor confessed last year that the same exact thing happens to her. What is the interstate trying to tell us, I wonder?

 

I don't know, but it is certainly hard for me to go a week without using this versatile bird in my menu. My apologies for his constant presence. I did, at least, avoid him until Wednesday this week. That's something, right?

 

For my first chicken-free meal, I made this portabella mushroom pie. My good friend from Jackson, Angela Simpkins, makes a pie similar to this one; I think of her each time I make it. I did not make my own pie crust this time (Aunt Prissy, don't be mad!), but if you have time, you should. The caramelized onions with their sweet richness and tangy feta cheese complement the earthiness of the mushrooms nicely. I have, in the past, added the tomatoes without cooking them first, but then, they make the pie too juicy and the crust soggy. Roasting them first in the oven intensifies their flavor, and eliminates much of their water content. I served the pie with an arugula salad, finished with long, thin slices of parmesan, cracked black pepper, and olive oil.

 

PORTABELLA PIE

2 pie crusts

2 onions (1 red, 1 yellow) sliced thinly

1 T. butter

1 T. olive oil

3-4 medium tomatoes, chopped

4 portabella mushrooms, chopped

More olive oil

Kosher salt

Cracked pepper

4 ounces feta cheese

1/2 cup chopped fresh basil

 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place one of the crusts in a pie dish, poke holes in it with a fork, and cook for about 10 minutes, until beginning to brown. In a large skillet, heat the butter and olive oil. Cook the onions over medium-high for about 20 minutes, or until they begin to release their sugars and brown. At that point, salt well, and turn off the heat. Meanwhile, toss the tomatoes with olive oil on a cookie sheet (the pieces should be evenly coated), salt and pepper well. Place the mushroom pieces on a separate cookie sheet, and coat them with oil, salt, and pepper also. Roast the tomatoes and mushrooms in a 425-oven for about 12 minutes, or until they begin to shrivel (see photo below). Layer the vegetables in the pie crust, beginning with the mushrooms and ending with the onions; sprinkle the cheese and some basil between each layer. Top with the remaining pie crust, and bake until the top is just beginning to brown, about 10-15 more minutes.

 

 

 

 

 
Recently Dished:

Grilled Chicken on Focaccia

 

Strawberry-Goat Cheese Salad

 

Lemony Chicken with Tiny Potatoes

 

Pesto Chicken Salad

 

Angel Hair with Goat Cheese and Caramelized Vegetables

 

ARCHIVES:

August 21-August 26

September 5-September 9

MY FAVORITE COOKBOOKS:

The Aunts' Recipe Book

by Cindy, Prissy, Jennifer, and Emily

This is the cookbook my aunts gave me when I got married. It is a 3-ring binder compilation of all their favorite recipes and some hilarious photos of me as a kid. It is by far my favorite book to cook with because it reminds me of people who love me. And, boy, do they know their food!

 

The Barefoot Contessa

by Ina Garten

Ina Garten's philosophy on food suits me so well. She believes in simplicity and fresh ingredients, and everything I have made of hers has been both easy and delicious.

 

Barefoot Contessa Family Style

by Ina Garten

I gave my sister-in-law, Hannah, this cookbook for her birthday last year, and we recently traded. She has the original Contessa, while I'm trying recipes from this one. So far, Ina's record with me is impeccable.

 

The Foster's Market Cookbook

by Sara Foster

I love this cookbook for its sheer variety; if ever I am in a creativity slump, I can count on this book to inspire me.

 

Fresh Everyday

by Sara Foster with Carolynn Carreno

I just got this one, and so far I love it. Lots of good basic recipe templates with ideas for innovation.

 

Come On In!

Junior League of Jackson, MS

This cookbook is a staple in the kitchens where I come from, and whenever I need a southern food fix, I turn to it.

 

Intercourses

by Martha Hopkins and Randall Lockridge

Based on ingredients that have aphrodisiac qualities, this is a cookbook to hide when your mother comes over. The food and the photography are fabulous, but as for its aphrodisiac powers, well, you'll have to be the judge of that (my mother might read this, after all). The food really is good, though; I've made almost everything in it.

 

Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet

by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid

I love Asian food, and this cookbook is valuable as much for its narrative and photography as for its recipes. Often, it calls for ingredients I can't find, but I have had fun trying my own substitutions nonetheless.

 

 

 

 

WEEKLY MENU


Monday

Portabella Pie

 

Tuesday

Fresh Tomatoes and Basil

 

Wednesday

Roast Chicken with Minted Orange Rice Pilaf

 

Thursday

Pesto Pizza with Sun-dried Tomatoes and Roast Chicken

 

Friday

Blue Cheese Quesadillas


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