Comfort Food, Curry Style
There are so many different versions of curry that you really never know what you’re going to get if you order it at a restaurant. What kind of restaurant helps–Thai curries are generally made with coconut milk, Indian ones with yogurt–but even then, some Thai curries contain potatoes, some contain eggplant; you really just never know. Which is part of what I love about ordering them–always a surprise.
A bowl of curry on a cold night is a richer, heartier version of chicken soup for me: comfort food. I like mine with coconut milk, which gives the broth a silky, creamy texture, and David likes it with beef to give the dish some protein-based substance. I’ve tried a number of different recipes, and this one is based on the Chiang-Mai Curry recipe from Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford’s lovely book Hot Sour Salty Sweet. Many of the ingredients their original recipe are difficult for me to find on a typical Saturday shopping trip, so I’ve adapted the recipe for what I can easily buy from my local grocer. My version is quick and easy, but I often wish that I made my own curry paste–I haven’t been able to find a store-bought version that I really love. Maybe in another life. If you’re interested in making your own, you should check out Thai cook extraordinaire Chez Pim; she has many versions with excellent instructions for the pounding of the curry.
If you’re looking for an Asian dish to try, this might be a good choice–it’s not any more difficult than chicken soup, and it’s much more flavorful. The fried noodles on top are completely optional–Duguid and Alford’s recipe calls for them, and I like the extra crunch. Also, you may need to adjust the amount of curry paste depending on how spicy you like your food and how hot the curry paste you use is. A good way to decide is to start with less and taste; you can always add more later. Here’s the method:
Curried Noodles
12 ounces egg noodles, 1 cup reserved if you’re frying them
1 T. peanut oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 serrano chilies, minced (seeded if you don’t like your food too spicy)
1 t. turmeric
1 T. sugar
3/4 pound beef, small-diced (meat cut for a stew works fine)
1 1/2 T. red curry paste
14 ounces coconut milk
1/2 cup water
3 T. fish sauce
2 limes
Cilantro, for garnish
Other optional garnishes: bean sprouts, slivered ginger, shredded cabbage, crushed peanuts
Cook the noodles until tender; drain, and set aside. In a very large skillet, sauté the garlic, chilies, and turmeric in the oil until the garlic is tender but not brown, about 4 minutes. Add the beef, sugar, and curry paste, stirring frequently until the beef is coated with the paste mixture and begins to turn brown. Add the coconut milk, water, and fish sauce. Simmer for 20-30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. Stir in the juice of 1 lime before serving. While the curry is simmering, you can fry the reserved noodles in 1 cup peanut oil for about 1 or 2 minutes, until they turn golden brown. Salt immediately. To serve, fill bowls with egg noodles. Ladle the curry on, top with cilantro and fried noodles, and garnish with lime wedges and any other toppings you like.